Why I observe first, instead of handing out exercises
This isn't about changing your dog. It's about giving you the ability to act.
I won't say anything about your dog until I've seen him
If you tell me over the phone or on a Zoom call that your dog is reactive on the leash, I could explain right away what’s causing it.
I won’t. Because I don’t know.
Maybe he wants to reach the other dog. Maybe it’s paid off for three years, because he always somehow gets his way. Maybe he’s insecure. Maybe you stop half a second beforehand, and he’s reacting to you instead of the other dog. Maybe it’s several of these at once.
I can only tell which explanation is right once I’ve seen you both. Not over video — the key signs are too subtle for that. But outside, in the actual situation, from a distance where I can observe both of you.
That’s why every collaboration starts with observing. Not with a diagnosis.
What my work is built on
Three basic assumptions. If they resonate with you, we can probably work well together.
The dog is rarely the problem alone — but always the most honest clue
Your dog isn’t doing anything to annoy you. He’s doing what pays off for him in that moment, or what feels right to him.
That doesn’t mean you’re always the reason. Sometimes it’s learning history. Sometimes arousal. Sometimes something physical that a vet should look at.
But what’s almost always true: his behaviour is honest feedback about the situation — and you’re part of that situation. That’s exactly why I look at both of you.
Leadership means: you know what you're doing — before the situation happens
Most dog owners decide in the moment of the encounter. Avoid it or keep going? Shorten the leash or keep it loose? Say something or ignore it?
If you’re deciding in the moment, you’re deciding too late. Your dog has already picked up on the uncertainty.
Leadership doesn’t mean louder, firmer, or stricter. It means: you’ve already decided what happens. Your dog notices the difference — often faster than you’d think.
Understanding comes before practicing. Always.
Exercises work when they match the problem. If they don’t, you might spend months practicing against something that was never the actual cause.
That’s why, with me, it’s observing first, then the assessment, then the plan. In that order.
In practice: your dog is reactive on the leash
What classic training often says
«Practice leash walking. Reward him when he doesn’t pull. Ignore him when he does.»
That can work. But it assumes you already know why he’s pulling. And that’s exactly what usually nobody knows.
What I do instead
I watch a real encounter. And I’m asking myself roughly these questions:
- When does your dog spot the other dog? When do you spot it?
- What happens in the seconds in between — for him and for you?
- At what distance does it tip over? Is that distance always the same?
- Is he reacting to the other dog — or to your reaction to it?
- What do you do once it starts? And does it work?
- What does it look like when it goes well? What’s different then?
And then?
Then I tell you what I saw. In observable terms, not interpretations.
For example: «You saw him 15 seconds before your dog did. In those 15 seconds, you slowed down and shortened the leash. He reacted to you stopping before he’d even fixated on the other dog.»
That’s what the plan is built on. Not the other way around.
What you'll get with me
✅ Observation before judgment I look first. I’ll tell you what I see — even if it’s uncomfortable.
✅ Explanations instead of instructions No «just practice this.» You’ll understand why something happens, and you can adjust it if things change.
✅ A written plan After every session: exactly what, how, and why.
✅ A focus on both of you I’m a dog trainer and a coach. That means I also see what you’re doing in the situation — and can explain it in a way that lets you change it.
✅ Work in real everyday life No training ground. Right where it happens: at your home, in your neighbourhood, on your usual walk.
✅ No forced packages You book when you want to. One session or twenty.
What you won't get
❌ No remote diagnosis I won’t tell you what’s wrong over the phone. Because at that point, I genuinely don’t know.
❌ No quick fixes After 90 minutes, not everything is fixed. After 90 minutes, you’ll know where you stand.
❌ No behaviour therapy For serious aggression, after a biting incident, or in cases of severe anxiety, I’m not the right person. In those cases, I’ll recommend a specialist.
❌ No standard programs Every team is different. I don’t have a course plan I just work through.
❌ No sugar-coating If I think something isn’t working, I’ll say so. Even if you’d rather hear it differently.
So how much "coaching" is actually in this?
Fair question. The word is a loaded one, and I understand if you’re skeptical.
Most issues get resolved on a concrete level. Timing, distance, how you handle the leash, when and how you react. That’s where we start, and that’s where most people stay.
Sometimes a pattern shows up that’s older than your dog. That you tend to avoid conflict in general, for example. If you want to go further at that point, I can support you with that — I’m trained for it.
But you don’t have to. And I won’t be the one to start that conversation. You’re here because of your dog, not your life story.
What I don’t do: tell you your dog is reactive because you can’t set boundaries at work. Sentences like that might sound profound, but they’re usually just unsubstantiated.
Does this sound right to you?
Then let's talk. 30 minutes, free, on Zoom. You tell me about your situation, and I'll tell you honestly whether I'm the right fit.
Does this sound like too much?
Then I might not be the right fit — and that's completely fine. If you mainly want to build basic cues, a good dog school is cheaper and better suited for that. I'd rather tell you that now than after you've paid 150 francs.
